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Home > Biography > Personal Memoirs > The Eiger Obsession: Facing the Mountain That Killed My Father

The Eiger Obsession: Facing the Mountain That Killed My Father

by Harlin, John
 
 
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The Eiger Obsession: Facing the Mountain That Killed My Father
In the 1960s an American named John Harlin II changed the face of Alpine climbing. Gutsy and gorgeous -- he was known as "the blond god" -- Harlin successfully summitted some of the most treacherous mountains in Europe. But it was the north face of the Eiger that became Harlin's obsession. Living with his wife and two children in Leysin, Switzerland, he spent countless hours planning to climb, waiting to climb, and attempting to climb the massive vertical face. It was the Eiger direct -- the direttissima -- with which John Harlin was particularly obsessed. He wanted to be the first to complete it, and everyone in the Alpine world knew it. John Harlin III was nine years old when his father made another attempt on a direct ascent of the notorious Eiger. Harlin had put together a terrific team, and, despite unending storms, he was poised for the summit dash. It was the moment he had long waited for. When Harlin's rope broke, 2,000 feet from the summit, he plummeted 4,000 feet to his death. In the shadow of tragedy, young John Harlin III came of age possessed with the very same passion for risk that drove his father. But he had also promised his mother, a beautiful and brilliant young widow, that he would not be an Alpine climber. Harlin moved from Europe to America, and, with an insatiable sense of wanderlust, he reveled in downhill skiing and rock-climbing. For years he successfully denied the clarion call of the mountain that killed his father. But in 2005, John Harlin could resist no longer. With his nine-year-old daughter, Siena -- his very age at the time of his father's death -- and with an IMAX Theatre filmmaking crew watching, Harlin set off to slay the Eiger. This is an unforgettable story about fathers and sons, climbers and mountains, and dreamers who dare to challenge the earth.


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Title of ebook: The Eiger Obsession: Facing the Mountain That Killed My Father
ISBN: 9781416539315
parent-ISBN: 9780743296908
Publisher: Simon & Schuster
Published: 03-2007
Released online for download: 03-06-2007
Author of eBook: Harlin, John,

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The Eiger Obsession

Facing the Mountain that Killed My Father

One

The Shattered Pillar

When I was a kid it always bothered me that Dad hadn't been able to survive most of his 4,000-foot fall. He would have wanted to savor the event: his "ultimate experience," the one he had been looking forward to, even though he wanted it to come later. My mother made sure that the film in his movie camera was developed, because he would have filmed the whole thing if possible. That's just how he was, and it would have been strange if he'd changed at the last minute.

Or maybe he would have. Changed, that is. Another minute of life might have been enough time for him to reflect on his children, ages eight and nine, and to realize how selfish it was to die when they needed him. Or maybe he would have learned that the opportunity to watch his children grow up, to participate in their lives, is a much greater adventure than dying. And what about his parents? Did he think about how he was hurting them? No, I don't think he did. But if he'd had that minute to think, perhaps he would have. Maybe it's b ... read full excerpt from: The Eiger Obsession: Facing the Mountain That Killed My Father ebook



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